0
0
When you’re planning your trip to Vietnam, you’ll probably notice that Ho Chi Minh City doesn’t get a whole lot of love. Most things I read before heading over in April suggested only a couple of days in Ho Chi Minh City. Apparently that’s all we’d need. Other people I spoke to said I was crazy to focus on the south first. Well I disagree. I think Ho Chi Minh City is seriously underrated.
Hanoi lays claim to culture, bia hoi, and crumbling colonial architecture. In Ho Chi Minh City, buildings of shining glass and steel have sprouted from the ground and race toward the sky, while shop house restaurants sit snugly alongside, dishing up the same noodle dish they have done for decades. Aunties serve coffee and snacks to passers-by from small carts they wheel through traffic, stopping on whatever clear pavement or road they find. Their customers, from well-heeled business workers to market stall owners to street sweepers, perch on tiny plastic stools and read the newspaper. It’s unpretentious, Ho Chi Minh City. It’s full of history, craft beer and scooters, and it’s worth visiting for more than just two days.
Yeah ok, you like Ho Chi Minh City, but what is there to do?
I won’t lie, Ho Chi Minh City is not an easy city to walk around. The footpaths are parking spaces for scooters (complete with parking attendants) most of the time, or uneven and battered the rest of the time. But walking is still a great way to see the city, just keep your wits about you. Watch for motorbikes zipping past and potholes in the pavement. That said, I never felt unsafe walking through the city.
War Remnants Museum
This museum tops just about every list of things to do in Ho Chi Minh City. It’s a must see, but it’s not easy viewing. The museum houses several intense exhibits that tell the story of the American War and its impacts on the Vietnamese people. It goes beyond the initial reports, and talks about ongoing effects of defoliants and Agent Orange, in shockingly close details. The exhibits are brutally graphic and hard to look at. It’s also one of the top attractions in Ho Chi Minh City, and is always very busy. Get in early to beat the heat and the crowds. This shit is heavy.
Ho Chi Minh City Museum (Gia Long Palace)
This museum is a collection of exhibits and items from around the Saigon area, including the city’s involvement in the American War. It’s a hell of a lot less crowded than the War Remnants Museum, and the Independence Palace. You can still find the ubiquitous war machines in the grounds, and some classic old cars that are no longer in use. The exhibits are varied – there’s a section devoted to the history of Saigon city and its ever changing maps, a section devoted to Buddhism and an impressive display of Communist propaganda.
Independence Palace
This is probably the most famous place in the city. This is where the president of South Vietnam lived, and where the North Vietnamese Army tanks crashed through the gates to end the war. Set in lush rolling grounds, the place is a huge rectangle building that looks nothing like palaces in neighbouring countries. It’s grey, it’s lumbering, it’s officious. The outside betrays the luxurious inner rooms, finished in rich teak, auspicious red and yellow silks, and hand stitched rugs. You can talk a self-guided tour through the building, viewing the rooms including the military bunkers complete with battle maps and communications equipment, as well as the bedroom and dressing room of the president. It gets busy quick, so go early to beat the crowds and enjoy the serenity of the morning.
Little Tokyo – Chikara gyoza bar
Not far from the Heart of Darkness taproom, you’ll find a small neighbourhood of streets that makes up Little Tokyo. Here’s where you go to find blasting karaoke bars, ramen joints and izakaya. And it truly feels like you’ve ended up in the laneways of Tokyo. There’s plenty of food, and plenty of places to get into mischief. We had one of the greatest meals of our trip in this area. We found the Chikara gyoza bar, a tiny restaurant serving up cold beer and Japanese bites. Pulling up a stool at the counter, we looked directly into the kitchen where the chefs whipped up tasty gyoza with terrifying precision. With a little Dutch courage in my veins (and some help from the staff), I ordered us a few plates of dumplings, soups and fried chicken. It’s definitely worth a visit, and there’s more to find than just gyoza. I even spied a pool hall.
Ben Thanh Market
This is it: the end game. The biggest challenge to my haggling skills thus far. Ben Thanh Market is busy, loud and colourful. It’s also the centre of many terrible travel stories involving rip offs and pickpockets. The truth is, it’s like any market in South East Asia; the usual safety precautions should be taken here. Don’t carry all your cash at once, and just keep your wits about you. Ben Thanh is a great place to stock up on tourist trinkets, coffee and t-shirts if you’re running out of clean clothes. Be prepared to haggle hard! I nearly tripped over my jaw when I heard the first offer on a t-shirt from a vendor. Vendors here aren’t shy about physically steering you toward their shop too, but a polite ‘no thanks!’ and little shake will set you free. There is no personal space in this market, so don’t expect any. Everyone is up close and personal with each other. You’ll also find a heaps of stalls selling tasty bowls of noodle, fresh spring rolls and the ubiquitous banh mi. Even the locals are into it!
Bui Vien
This place is like someone took Bangkok’s infamous Khao San Road and turned it up to eleven. By day, its a normal busy road overrun by scooters and delivery trucks. By night, its a hectic, neon-lit, beer soaked, out-of-control party. Multi-level night clubs blast dance music from every available speaker, calling the creatures of the night to their dance floors. Footpaths cease to exist, and instead are taken over by beer and shisha bars. Smoke, squeals and laughter evaporate into the night air. This is where you can dance until the sun comes up, grab yourself some dirt cheap noodles, lash out and get yourself a tattoo or sit by the door to a guesthouse reception-come-beer bar and watch the night roll on. If you’re looking for it, you’ll find it in the backstreets of Bui Vien. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but it is so mind-blowingly ridiculous that you need to go. At least once, if only to dance like you’re 18 years old again.
French colonial architecture
Saigon’s streets aren’t made for pedestrians. The wide footpaths turn into scooter parking lots… and that’s if they’re not cracked, broken and in desperate need of repair. But taking to the streets by foot is one of the best ways to take in the city’s architecture. From the Municipal Theatre and Hotel Majestic Saigon, to the People’s Committee of Ho Chi Minh City building and the Notre Dame cathedral, the city is a feast for the eyes. Dong Khoi St is a great place to start, and just work your way out from there. You’ll find excellent street food along the way, and get a fantastic view of local Saigon life. Just watch out for the coconut sellers!
Craft beer breweries
I read somewhere before I left that the Vietnamese are among the biggest consumers of beer in the world. It’s little wonder – you’ll never go thirsty in Ho Chi Minh City. There’s plenty of places to grab a drink, no matter your budget. Hit the rooftop bars for a touch of glam, or search out bia hoi – fresh beer served by locals at roadside stalls. Alternatively, you can hit one of the craft beer brewery taprooms that are popping up around Saigon for a taste of Asia’s new age in beer. I dedicated a whole post to craft beer if you’re keen to check out something different.
Wait there’s more!
I loved Ho Chi Minh City is great. It’s a great base for day trips out to other sites! We arranged day trips to a few other places, like the Cu Chi Tunnels, Cao Dai Temple at Tay Ninh, Cai Be floating market and the Mekong Delta. There’s plenty of tour companies who can tailor make an itinerary for you. Xin Chao Private Vietnam Tours are awesome. We missed all the big crowds and made extra stops along the way for special snacks or great photo opportunities. This isn’t sponsored or anything, I just thought they were marvellous! We got individual private tours and the guides were brilliant.
There’s also more to see in Ho Chi Minh City. I could go back again for a week, as I feel like I’ve still missed so much. We unfortunately didn’t manage to get to Cholon, Saigon’s Chinatown in District 5, or the expat area of District 2. I’ve also read good things about the outer district of Phu My Hung!
What else do you want to know about Vietnam?
Drop me a note below!
